The Royal Trail

Hemavan - Ammarnäs 75 outstanding kilometres!

Hemavan is at the southern end of Sweden's famed Royal Trail for hikers. Right at the other end, some 450 km north, is Abisko. The Hemavan-Ammarnäs section of the trail is 75 km long, and was upgraded as a fine summer and winter hiking trail in the 1980s, when four new cabins were also built. With the exception of 1 km at the start and 2 km at the end, all of this section of the trail is within the Vindelfjällen nature reserve. This whole section is covered by map AC2 of the "Fjällkartan" topographical map series. The section described here is highly suitable for a one-week hike, with stops at the five cabins. The terrain is varied and interesting, ranging from easy high-fell plateau with a wide view eastwards, to the wilder high-alpine landscape in the west. And in between there is the long deep lake of Tärnasjön in the higher forest of mountain birch. This brochure describes the section of the trail between Hemavan in the south to Ammarnäs in the north-west. Naturally you can also follow the Royal Trail in the opposite direction, starting in Ammarnäs and ending in Hemavan.

Equipment

In the summer season (approx. 1/7-1/9) you will need only normal - but warm - outdoor clothing, wet-weather gear, boots, sleeping bag or a sleeping bag sheet (there are blankets and pillows in the cabins) and a supply of food for a few days (a limited range of foods can be bought at all cabins in the busy season). Map AC2 of the "Fjällkartan" topographical map series is essential.

The cabins

The five hiker's cabins are run by the Swedish Touring Club (STF). These cabins have a warden during the summer and winter seasons, which run from approximately 1/7 to 1/9 and 20/3 to 1/5 respectively. At each cabin one room for emergency shelter remains accessible all year round. Wood is the fuel used for heating and cooking. In the busy season this is supplemented by bottled gas appliances. Cooking utensils are provided. Before leaving visitors are required to cut wood to replace what they have used, and to clean the cabin. Each night at one of these cabins costs about Skr 135:- for members of STF and Skr 160:- for non-members.

By coach, air and rail

There is a direct coach service between Stockholm and Hemavan all year round. Or you can fly to Storuman or Umeå from where you can take a direct coach service to Hemavan or Ammarnäs. There are rail services on the Inland Line to Storuman or Sorsele, with coach links from there to Hemavan and Ammarnäs respectively.

Hemavan - Viterskal Cabin (Viterskalstugan)

From Tärna Fjällpark (Tärna Mountain Park) the Royal Trail begins as a good, wide path up through forests of mountain birch. After about 100 metres you pass an entrance to the Fjällbotaniska Trädgård (Alpine Botanical Gardens). After 1 km you reach a fine vantage point, high above the deep ravine of Mortsbäcken. After another 1 km you are above the tree-line with a view for miles around, including the Artfjället mountains and the mountains on the Norwegian border. Instead of walking the first section up through the birch forest, you have the option of taking the chair lift at Norrliften. 7 km from Hemavan by the suspension bridge over the Syterbäcken stream the trail is joined by another hiking trail which starts from Klippen. From here the trail is an easy, level walk all the way to Viterskal Cabin. [bildtext:] Easy walking across mountain heathland in the Syterskal valley.

Viterskal Cabin

If you start from Hemavan, Viterskal Cabin is the first cabin with overnight accommodation along the Royal Trail, a distance of 10 km. In a pretty setting down in the narrow valley of the Syterbäcken stream, this cabin is run by the Swedish Touring Club (STF). It has a warden in the high season. This is the oldest cabin on the Hemavan-Ammarnäs section of the trail. Two dormitories with 10 and 4 beds. Kitchen and day room. Wood is used for cooking and heating most of the year, but is supplemented by bottled gas in the busy season. Solar-powered emergency telephone. Like all STF cabins, Viterskal Cabin remains open all year round. Please note that dogs may not be taken inside the cabin. The peak named Norra Syter (900 metres higher than the cabin) can be climbed starting from here. The trail is marked, with some steep sections. Another excursion involves wading across the Syterbäcken stream and taking an unmarked trail through the Viterskal to Måskosjaure. A very easy hike, with flat, green meadows and small glacial lakes surrounded by perpendicular rock faces.

Viterskal Cabin - Syter Cabin

After Viterskal Cabin, the next sight awaiting you is the impressive U-shaped glacial valley called Syterskal. One of the most unforgettable experiences in the Swedish mountains has to be the walk through this valley, with its sheer sides rising some 800 metres on either side. A very easy walk over flat grassy terrain for 6 km up to the eastern end of the valley. Then the trail takes you up over Sjul-Olsaxeln and down to Syter Cabin on the other side of the bridge across Vuopperjukke.

Syter Cabin

Syter Cabin is the second cabin with overnight accommodation along the trail, 22 km from Hemavan, in a fine setting below the peak of Norra Syter (1767 metres a.s.l.). In the low season the larger cabin here is locked, but the older and beautifully restored cabin with 2 x 4 beds is open throughout the year. The larger cabin, which is of the same type as the other four cabins between here and Ammarnäs, has 22 beds. Emergency telephone. As at Viterskal Cabin, no dogs are allowed inside these cabins. From Syter Cabin, too, there is a marked trail to the summit of Norra Syter (1767 metres a.s.l.) as well. A full day trip, relatively demanding.
Other suitable day trips include one to the Östra Syter glacier (5 km each way), or up along the Vuopperjukke towards the (locked) Lappish reindeer herders' hut. Another day trip (particularly suitable if the weather is not very good) is to follow the trail down to Forsavan and the King's Cabin (Kungens stuga). In the summer of 1993 a Stone-Age settlement some 8,000 years old was found near here. [bildtext (foto)] The section of the trail between Hemavan and Viterskal Cabin becomes snow-free in early June.

Syter Cabin - Serve Cabin

Tärnasjön is a lake some 20 km long. In its lower section there are many small islands, and a system of bridges between some of these allows hikers to cross the lake. After that the trail follows the eastern shores of the lake, through a forest of mountain birch over uneven terrain. Fine views over the lake, with the steep slopes and glaciers of Norra Storfjäll on the other side. You may fish in Tärnasjön provided you have the correct licence (ask about the general fishing licence issued by the local County Administrative Board - "Länsstyrelsens allmänna fiskekort" - in good time before you set out along the trail).

Tärnasjö Cabin

Tärnasjö Cabin sleeps 22. A limited range of foods can be bought from the warden in the main season. Open in the off-peak season is the old County Agricultural Board cabin alongside. It has four beds for hikers. Emergency telephone. Down by the lake is a much-appreciated luxury: a wood-fired sauna which can be booked through the warden.

Tärnasjö Cabin - Serve Cabin

For 4 km you follow an old trading route up through park-like forests of mountain birch to the terrain above the tree-line. A hundred years ago the farmers of Ammarnäs used to travel this way to trade in Norway. In places you can still see stone-paved sections of the old road. Once above the tree-line you have a marvellous view back over the Norra Storfjäll mountains. Fishing is allowed in several of the tarns here if you have the County Administrative Board general fishing licence. The trail continues above the tree-line until a few kilometres before Serve Cabin.

Serve Cabin

This STF cabin, too, can accommodate 22 hikers. Open (with warden) in the peak season. There is a smaller 4-bed cabin which remains open all year. Emergency telephone. On a small plateau a few hundred metres above the cabin there is an old reindeer enclosure, where the animals were herded for milking etc. The reindeer milk was stored in a special cellar which is still there. Another pleasant evening outing is a walk of a few hundred metres along the Servejukke to see a staircase of charming little falls forming a long cascade.

Serve Cabin - Ammarnäs

First 2 km down to the bridge over the Vuomejukke and a mighty waterfall. Then another 2 km up to above the tree-line, through a birch forest, dead in parts on account of an insect pest. An ancient system of animal pitfalls can be seen right alongside the trail in the higher birch forest. After that you remain above the tree-line all the way to Aigert. Magnificent views of the Ammar mountains to the north. The trail is high here, mostly between 1,000 and 1,100 metres a.s.l. There is a new shelter about 6 km from Serve Cabin. Fishing is allowed in some of the tarns above the tree-line.

Aigert Cabin

This cabin, of the same type as most of those encountered so far, is in a lovely spot by a small tarn near the tree-line. In the tourist season it is staffed by a warden and offers 18 beds. In the shoulder season there is only one room with 10 beds open. No access to kitchen and stove during this period. The County Administrative Board fishing licence allows you to fish in the two small tarns by the cabin. [foto:] Fishing licences can be bought to include Ruoutetjejaure by Aigert Cabin.

Aigert - Ammarnäs

First 3 km above the tree-line, then a further 5 km (steep in places) down through the forest to Ammarnäs. High in the forest of mountain birch you pass the site of an old Lappish encampment, with the remains of a Lappish storehouse.

Hemavan

Hemavan is a small mountain village in a very beautiful spot on the River Ume, in a narrow valley between two high mountain ranges named Norra Storfjället and Artfjället. The inhabitants (numbering around 225) depend chiefly on tourism and reindeer herding. There is a well-stocked hardware store, grocery, post office and petrol station.

Tärna Fjällpark (Tärna Mountain Park)

This attraction right at the start of the Royal Trail boasts, amongst other things, a spectacular golden tower 10 storeys high. Sinneriket ("The World of the Senses") is an innovative and unusual presentation of the natural and cultural history of these mountains. Auditorium with excellent multimedia (AV) presentation.

Special week-long programmes for visitors

Visitors are welcome to participate in any of the various events which make up the series of week-long programmes in the Tärnaby-Hemavan area. Excursions, adventures and activities every day through the summer weeks. Hiking, cycle tours, cave expeditions, glacier and botanical walks, visits to artists' studios and angling aplenty!

Fjällbotaniska Trädgården (Alpine Botanical Gardens)

This is the northernmost botanical garden in the world. Can be entered via a glassed-in walkway directly from the Tärna Mountain Park or from the Royal Trail. Here you can see 400 species of alpine plant in their natural environment, including an orchid discovered only in 1987 by Olof Rune, founder of the park.

Fishing in Kroki'-avan

Kroki'-avan is the name of a small tarn alongside the River Ume which has been stocked with local char of the very highest quality. A special fishing licence for the summer is available. Many other fine angling waters.

Accommodation

For bookings at:	telephone:
FBU-gården, STF youth hostel, hotel rooms	+46 0954-300 02
Hemavans Wärdshus, hotel rooms, chalets, apts.	+46 0954-301 25
Centrumhuset, hotel rooms, chalets, apts.	+46 0954-304 10
Högfjällshotellet, hotel rooms, also self-catering	+46 0954-301 50
Hemavan Service, chalets, apartments	+46 0954-300 20
Kungsporten, apartments	+46 0954-380 00
SMU-Fjällgård, hotel rooms	+46 0954-300 27
Sånninggården (in Klippen), hotel rooms	+46 0954-330 38

The main centre in the area is Tärnaby, 18 km south of Hemavan. In and around Tärnaby there are numerous hotels and chalet villages. For details, contact the Tärnafjällen Tourist Bureau (phone number below).

Tourist Bureau

Tärnafjällen Tourist Bureau +46 0954-104 50

Ammarnäs

The idyllic little mountain village of Ammarnäs is right in the middle of the Vindelfjällen nature reserve, the largest in Europe. Population around 250, with tourism, reindeer herding and handicrafts the main sources of income. There is a store selling groceries and other essentials, a post office and petrol station. Ammarnäs Naturum has a very worthwhile exhibition on the Vindelfjällen nature reserve.

Potatisbacken

Potatisbacken is the name of a remarkable hill (actually a moraine) in Ammarnäs - not to be missed! Despite the latitude, potatoes of the delicious almond-shaped variety have been grown on its south-facing slopes for over a century. There is a footpath to the top from where you have a good view of the village and of Gautsträsk.

Örnbo

Örnbo (The Eagle's Nest) is an old house, now restored, 5 km from the end of the road on the northern side of Gautsträsk. Fine views. Örnbo was a private home right up until the 1950s.

The Royal Trail northwards

From Ammarnäs the Royal Trail continues northwards all the way to Abisko, about 400 km. The first stage north from Ammarnäs has taken a completely new route since 1994. A new cabin, Rävfall Cabin, has been built by the River Vindel, some 20 km north of Ammarnäs. This cabin is locked, but the keys can be obtained at Jonsstugan (see below). The new route of the trail and the cabin are marked on recent maps.

The Lappish (Sami) people and their reindeer

There are private ventures in Ammarnäs offering tourists encounters with genuine Lappish culture. Lapplandssafari is a company which arranges Lappish cultural events, hunting, fishing and excursions. Visit a genuine Lappish settlement with tame reindeer. Or go out riding on Iceland horses with Fjällhästen or Ammarnäs Islandshästar. One-day treks or longer expeditions with accommodation in Lappish tents.

Accommodation

For bookings at:	telephone:
Ammarnäsgården, hotel rooms and chalet village	+46 0952-600 03
Jonsstugan (Jons Cabin), STF youth hostel	+46 0952-600 45
Grundströms stugby (chalet village)	+46 0952-601 50
Vindelåforsens stugby (chalet village)	+46 0952-600 49
Ammarnäs caravan campsite	+46 0952-600 63

Tourist Bureau

Ammarnäs Tourist Bureau and Naturum, (peak season)	+46 0952-601 32
Vindelälven Tourist Bureau, Sorsele, all year	+46 0952-109 00